HOW TO COOK THEM

Handmade and frozen fresh, which means there is nothing to defrost and nothing to prepare. Straight from the freezer into the heat — thawed dumplings stick to everything and split at the pleat. Three ways below, and the one we would pick.

Our pick

PAN-FRIED

12 min

One or two tablespoons of oil, medium heat, twelve dumplings flat side down.

Two to three minutes, until the bottoms turn light gold.

Half a cup of water in and the lid on immediately — it will spit, so stand back.

Seven or eight minutes on low, until the water has gone completely.

Lid off, another minute or two. That last minute is the crisp base.

STEAMED

10–12 min

Grease the basket or line it with a mesh sheet, or they will weld themselves to it.

Twelve dumplings with a little space between each — they swell.

Ten to twelve minutes over boiling water. Serve straight away.

BOILED

8–10 min

A gentle boil, not a rolling one. Drop them in and stir once so they don't settle.

Eight to ten minutes. They float before they're ready — give them a moment more.

Out with a slotted spoon and drain well. A colander tears the wrappers.

Baji's rules

FOUR THINGS THAT MATTER

Cook from frozen, always. This is the whole trick.

The lid goes on the second the water hits the pan. That trapped steam is doing the cooking.

Crowding the pan steams what you meant to fry. Two batches beats one sad one.

Stir the chilli oil up from the bottom before you dip — the good part sinks.

Enjoy every bite. — Baji